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Friday, July 26, 2019

Let’s move to Ceredigion: all bushy-tailed and bustling

There are few places in better spirits than this remote and ancient place

What’s going for it? Hardcore, the Cardigans. They take no nonsense. Owain Gwynedd, Cadwaladr ap Gruffydd and Gruffydd ap Rhys kicked out the Normans, razing the castle and building their own, thank you very much, which stands there to this day. The relative remoteness of Ceredigion, and, of course, the doughty character of its inhabitants, has long made this stretch of coast a bastion of Welsh culture and language. The nearby coast has everything from rugged cliffs and sandy beaches to secret coves – not to mention dolphin sightings. Today, the castle, where the first eisteddfod was held, back in the misty reaches of time, is freshly renovated and revived, as a home to Welsh poetry jams and whatnot. And the rest of the town? I’ve rarely seen a place in better spirits. The high street is all bushy-tailed with Specsavers, nail bars, butchers, greengrocers beside sans-serif bakers and kool koffee spots with hashtags. There’s culture aplenty: a great cinema, Theatr Mwldan, a film society, and an “alternative” theatre venue, the Small World Theatre. This is one of those corners of Wales that has long attracted outcasts and hippies, rat-race escapees, such as the brains behind the Meghan-sported Hiut jeans, and those who have frankly had enough of everything (who can blame them right now?).

The case against Precious little. Unless you can’t live without motorways and skyscrapers. Probably harder to find work unless you are Welsh-speaking.

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